Art Clay Silver Paste can be used in several different ways. The method you use depends on what you want to create with the paste. Below we distinguish between making a silver leaf using a real natural leaf as the base and repairing or joining silver components.
Making a silver leaf using a real leaf as the base
Art Clay Silver Paste is very suitable for making a silver leaf using a real natural leaf as the base. During firing, the natural leaf burns away completely, leaving behind a detailed silver version of the original leaf.
The choice of leaf is important. Preferably choose a firm, healthy, undamaged and fresh leaf with a clearly defined vein structure on the underside. The underside of the leaf, where the veins are most prominent, largely determines the final appearance of the silver leaf.
The paste is applied to the underside of the natural leaf. This is usually where the veins are clearest and most raised. The structure is transferred into the silver clay during application, almost as if the leaf were being used as a stamp. During firing, the natural material burns away while the veins and fine details remain visible in the silver, giving the finished piece a natural appearance.
The clearer and more pronounced the vein structure on the underside of the chosen leaf, the more beautifully this structure will usually be visible in the finished silver leaf.
Method:
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Apply the paste to the underside of the leaf with a fine brush. Start with a thin, slightly diluted layer of paste. Make sure this first layer flows well around the veins and into the fine structures of the leaf so that as much detail as possible is captured.
Make sure there are no air bubbles next to the veins or on the surface of the leaf.
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Allow the first layer to dry completely before continuing. This can be done with a hair dryer on a low setting or simply by allowing it to air dry.
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Next, apply several layers of undiluted paste. Allow each layer to dry thoroughly before applying the next one. By building up the leaf layer by layer, you gradually create sufficient thickness and strength.
We recommend applying at least 10 to 12 layers. After drying, this will give a thickness of approximately 1 mm. Carefully building up several layers is important to create a strong finished piece.
Pay particular attention to the edges, the veins and the tip of the leaf. Where a vein is thick or strongly raised, the layer of silver clay around it may still be very thin. Check these areas carefully and apply additional layers of paste where necessary to reinforce the leaf.
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Once the leaf has reached sufficient thickness and has dried completely, the leaf and silver clay can be fired using your preferred firing method. The natural leaf will burn away during firing, after which the silver can be sanded, filed and polished as usual.
Repairing and joining components
Art Clay Silver Paste is also very suitable for repairing and joining silver clay and silver components.
- Joining dried silver clay to dried silver clay
- Joining dried silver clay to already fired silver
- Joining already fired Art Clay Silver components together
- Attaching fine silver components and findings
- Repairing cracks, breaks and damaged areas
- Repairing or adjusting rings
Apply the paste to the area where the components need to be joined. Make sure the paste has good contact with both surfaces. When working with already fired silver, lightly roughen the surface first to provide better grip for the paste.
Because the paste contains a relatively high amount of water, only a thin layer of silver material remains after one applied layer has dried. For this reason, do not try to build up a repair or connection with one thick layer.
Preferably apply at least 3 thin layers of paste and allow each layer to dry completely before applying the next.
By building up several layers of paste around the joint, you reinforce the connection and create sufficient silver material in the area where the components need to sinter together during firing.
For larger repairs, wider joints or components that will be subjected to more stress, additional layers of paste may be necessary.
When repairing or joining already fired silver, remember that only the newly applied paste will still shrink during firing. The already fired silver will not shrink again.
Drying
Allow each applied layer of paste to dry thoroughly before applying the next layer. This applies both when building up a silver leaf and when making repairs or connections.
Drying time depends on the thickness of the applied layer, the size of the piece, the ambient temperature and the humidity.
The drying process can be accelerated with a hair dryer, drying plate or household oven at a low temperature (max. 100°C).
Always make sure the piece is completely dry before firing. This is especially important when several layers of paste have been applied or when moist paste has been added to an already dried or fired component.
Once the paste is completely dry, it will feel hard and firm. The surface can then be carefully sanded, refined or built up further if necessary.
Shrinkage and firing
Art Clay Silver Paste has a shrinkage rate of approximately 8–9% during firing.
For a component made entirely from paste, such as a silver leaf, the entire silver piece will shrink during firing.
When repairing or joining already fired silver, only the newly applied paste will shrink. Keep this in mind when building up a joint or repair.
It is important that the paste is completely dry before firing.
Based on our own practical experience, we recommend a firing temperature of approximately 800°C to 900°C when using a kiln. At these temperatures, the silver sinters well and a strong connection can be achieved.
The required firing time depends on the temperature used, the size and thickness of the piece and the chosen firing method.
Finishing
After firing, the silver has a white, crystalline appearance. This is completely normal and is caused by the surface structure of the silver after sintering, before it has been polished.
First brush the piece with a suitable brass or polishing brush. This reveals the silver colour and creates a matt to satin finish.
For a higher shine, the surface can be further finished using:
- Polishing pads
- Sanding discs
- Agate burnisher
- Polishing or burnishing needle
- A Dremel or other rotary tool with suitable polishing attachments
For a high-gloss finish, the piece can finally be polished with a suitable polishing compound. This gives the silver a bright, clear colour and a smooth, shiny surface.
